2017 Menetou-Salon, Domaine de l’Ermitage, Laurence et Géraud de la Farge, Loire, France
£15, Robert Rolls, 020-3215 0011, robertrolls.com
There are few people as respected in our wine trade as Robert Rolls. I have known him for more than 30 years, but I rarely taste his wines and I am not sure why this is. Perhaps it is that he keeps himself to himself, and his modesty and the scarcity of stock of many of his wines mean that he doesn’t make too much of a fuss about his business. We bumped into each other the other day and he said he would send me a case of samples – and every wine was not only superb, but they were also all stunning value, too.
Loires, Rhônes and Burgundies, and all under £25, it was this keenly priced Menetou that completely amazed me with its finesse and control. A couple of months ago I wrote up a Pouilly-Fumé, which was one of the most imposing, intense and age-worthy sauvignon blancs I have ever tasted.
Domaine de l’Ermitage is almost the complete opposite. It is vital, immediately appealing, open and giving, and perfectly flavoured from the bright citrus and herb nose to the cool, stony, mouth-watering finish. It is drinking right now and you are guaranteed to be amazed at the energy and pristine freshness of this wine.
I hope that you feel moved to buy it and then take a look at Robert’s collection of fascinating Domaines. I am sure he would be gracious enough to add a few MoneyWeek wine fans to his elite client list.
Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com).