2018 Dolcetto d’Alba, Fratelli Serio e Battista Borgogno, Piemonte, Italy
£14.95 £13.80 per bottle
£82.80 for a case of 6 bottles
I am a Dolcetto fan and yet this is a grape which so often disappoint with weedy fruit and pongy aromatics. Borgogno’s early-drinking 2018 is as far removed from this dodgy style as you can get. It is bursting with character, like a virile young Beaujolais, and it also has a thrilling fruits of the forest perfume which I admire greatly. Slim and nimble on the palate it is a red to set the scene before you move onto something more structured and as a palate warm-up act it is sublime!